If you look at product number TU1065, you'll see a typical one-pound, 3/4-inch ID, 1/4-inch wall tube that is 30-inches long. Those tubes currently cost $54.59 for 25 of them, or $2.18 each. Four 7-1/2-inch tubes can be cut out of each of them, and each of those typical length rocket tubes would end up costing you $0.55 each.
Now, if you look at product number TU1068, you'll see those same tubes, but 7-1/2-inches long, selling for $40.71 for 50 of them, or $0.81 each.
That's a pretty big difference. If we know how to cut our own tubes out of the 30-inch long ones, we can save some money.
Additionally, some devices like short-duration fountains, stinger rockets, and other types of rockets require tubes of lengths that are different than 7-1/2 inches. Knowing how to accurately cut various lengths of tubes will be necessary when making those items.
Also, if these tubes are treated with a hardener, they will have a higher burst strength and will be more resistant to the flame burning through the tube side-wall while the device is functioning. So, it's nice to know how to treat the tubes to accomplish this.
You might be saying, "Ned, why don't you just use a hacksaw or coping saw to cut the tubes by eyeballing the crosscut?"
I have two main goals when cutting tubes: I want a very square cut which runs at exactly 90 degrees across the tube, and I want a straight, smooth cut.
I have used a, power miter, wood working saw to cut many tubes. This is a quick way to accomplish those goals. But it has some disadvantages. I don't use such power tools in my fireworking shop, so to use that tool I have to go to the shop where it is located. It is also a bulky, heavy tool, which is not conducive to taking to pyro events where I might be cutting tubes and making various devices. Power tools are also dangerous, and can "grab" tubes when they are being cut unless one is very careful.
In the past year or so I've settled on a tube-cutting method which accomplishes my goals but which does not have the disadvantages I've listed above.
I found a plastic, Stanley, hand-sawing miter box at Home Depot, which has black plastic cams for locking a work-piece in place during sawing. Unless I'm just making one quick cut, I screw the miter box to my workbench to hold it securely in place during cuts.
We specialized in the production of Aluminium and Steel tubes. The Aluminium tubes are extruded on site using two possible methods. These are either Seamless extrusion or Porthole extrusion. It is quite simple to distinguish between the two extrusion methods. In seamless extrusion, a mandrel is positioned and fixed inside the extrusion die, creating the inner contour of the tube. In porthole extrusion, the mandrel is fixed and is supported by a number of integral bridges affixed to the outer portion of the extrusion die. Which production method is appropriate is dependent on alloy and application. High-strength alloys, for example, can only be produced by seamless extrusion. The subsequent cold drawing of an extruded aluminium tube may be a requirement of specification or for improved final dimensions, tolerances, thinner wall thicknesses or properties than is possible by extrusion alone.
Sometimes the Aluminium tubes or profiles are required in short fixed lengths rather than long or random lengths. This service is provided by our dedicated finish cut mill. Depending on the final dimension of the tube, we can offer a number of available surface finishes. We offer grinding, polishing or honing to provide outside and inside surfaces to the required quality.
The benefits of using steel pipes are highlighted below:
